The first time that I had taken my daughter out on the sea, she was four months old. I had set her feet on a stand-up paddleboard floating just off the shore of Eleuthera in the Bahamas. Harper, as a rational person would expect of a baby, had a fit. It took a few more months for her to grow comfortable with the ocean. And while it’s rare that she will crawl straight into every body of water–see Aruba–she does enjoy building and destroying sand castles and watching sand crabs scurry for the depths.
Surfing Waikiki presents the version of the sport most akin to the horrors of the Department of Motor Vehicles. Once you overlook the long-breaking waves and the beautiful, turquoise expanse, all you see is a crowded lineup and you can easily pick out those who are accident prone. Read more
I was only in Tokyo for Sunday and Monday, but surfing Japan was a top priority. Of those two days, however, only the second seemed to promise any swell. A few years prior, I had met a Japanese surfer in Panama; he could only say two words in English: surf and food. When I told him that I wanted to surf in Japan one day, he held up a thumb and said “Chiba. Surf. Enami.” Enami, I figured, from my understanding of the word tsunami and from the constant approval his one thumb kept offering meant “good wave.”
I paddled myself from Aruba’s turquoise waters off of the southwestern coast into the black saltwater of the Spanish Lagoon. The channel was still and opaque. Suddenly, a miniature geyser broke the surface. The shock unbalanced me. I steadied myself and watched as a black tube periscoped up. A swollen body followed. The man, who had been submerged for at least two minutes, finally took a few Vaderish breaths through his snorkel. A thin metal spike floated up beside him. Read more
When most people envision kitesurfing, they think, at the very least, of having a kite to harness the winds above their head and a board to skim the seas. Well, that’s what I thought, too. But when I when I was learning to kitesurf in Aruba, things didn’t exactly go as I had expected. Read more